Marble Wall peak climb

Marble Wall peak

Expedition to the Marble Wall peak (6400m)

The summit is situated in the Meridianalny range in the very center of the Tian-Shan mountains. The China-Kazakhstan border goes right across this peak.

Details
Base camp	A stationary camp is situated at the height of 3400m above sea level. So the difference of heights between the BC and the summit is about 3000 meters. The base camp is equipped with living tents, kitchen- and dining tents.
The period of the ascent	Due to the most unstable weather conditions in this area of Central Tian-Shan, the duration of the ascent is about 14 days. It’s advisable to divide the ascent into 2 stages: acclimatization and the climb.
The category of difficulty	There are several routes to the sunmmit. The most convenient for the summer period are: - Naumenko's route, 4B category - Mikhalov's route, 5А category
Technical peculiarities	Of snow-ice character Maximum steepness comes up to 45°
Season	July – first part of September
Duration	From Almaty - to Almaty expedition takes 18 days
The minimum number of participants	6 persons

The first mountaineering group to climb this peak was headed by Naumenko in 1946 and their route was performed along the western ridge. While an earlier expedition to this district was undertaken by famous German geographer and traveler Mertzbaher who made the first maps of this region in the beginning of the XXth century.

Itinerary
Day 1	Meeting at the airport and accommodation
Day 2	Drive Almaty – Bayankol – Dzharkulak canyon: 10 hours. Night in tents
Day 3	Walk from Dzharkulak to Base camp (3400m) at the foot of Marble Wall peak:4 hours. Setting the camp.
Days 4-17	Climbing period
Day 18	Descent from the Base camp to Dzharkulak: 3 hours. Night in tents.
Day 19	Drive Dzharkulak – Almaty. Accommodation.
Day 20	Departure