Komsomol is a 4,376-meter-high peak - one of the heighest in the Maloalmatinsky Gorge of the Zailiysky Alatau Range (Northern Tien Shan Mountains). We offer ascent to the summit along the 2A category route from the Komsomolsky Pass, in 2 days with a night in tents at a Bodganovich glacier. This is a technical climb. Ropes, special climbing equipment and techniques are used during the ascent. For the safe and successful climb, in addition to the weather and good physical fitness, participants are required to have basic (at least) mountaineering skills.
Komsomol (also Nursultan) is 4,376 meters high peak and is one of the highest in the Maloalmatinsky Gorge adjacent to the city of Almaty. Due to its regular pyramidal shape, it is clearly visible from any point in the city, it rises above the surrounding mounts. This is perhaps one of the most attractive points for climbers near Almaty and one of the symbols of our mountains.
This is a real expedition with technical climbing. During the tour you will be able to not only practice your mountaineering skills, but also high-altitude camping and survival.
We provide all necessary climbing, camping, kitchen gear and food on the tour. We take care of smooth logistics and your safety. You just have to accept the challenge!
The ascent itslef and the approach, including a night on the glacier, are guided by experienced professional mountaineering instructors.
The climb is organized on request and only for you. The guide accompanying you throughout the tour will focus on your needs, interests and safety. You can fully enjoy personalized service and comfort.
What to expect
Mountaineering is a physically and technically demanding sport. Climbing a mountain is not a one-day hike or even a difficult trek. Any climb is always associated with a certain degree of risk. We will do everything to ensure that your climb is safe (including the use of all necessary skills by the guide, certified equipment, etc.). But you must clearly understand that when you are going to climb a peak, you are in any case risking your health and life. And you take full responsibility for your decision.
This tour is held only in the summer. Even though the weather in the Zailiysky Alatau mountains is more stable in summer (compared to other seasons), we cannot trust the weather forecasts 100%. The weather in the mountains is very changeable, different specific processes occur. Even if there is no precipitation in the city of Almaty - at an altitude of more than 2500 meters it can suddenly rain or snow, thick fog can descend or a thunderstorm can begin. Thus, the weather is a factor that affects the success of the climb. In case of a sharp deterioration in the weather during the ascent, the guide may decide to turn back and you, by purchasing this tour, agree that the summit may not be reached due to adverse weather conditions that affect safety.
For this tour you must be in good physical condition and have basic (at least) or advanced mountaineering level. You must be ready for 10-12 hours of continuous hard physical activity at an altitude possibly in cold/bad weather with a wind, with a backpack. You will have to stay in tent at 3600m ASL at a glacier; be ready for cold night and possibly bad feeling at an altitude; to wake up early; to hike up and down by the rocky slopes, glacier with crevasses, moraines without paths; climb rocks - all for a hours and hours. At the same time, you must keep coordination and attention, because - in addition to physical effort - you will also have to be very careful with the equipment and ropes on the route. Your physical condition on the climb directly affects your safety.
Make sure you have appropriate clothes, boots and gear (not climbing) for this tour. The list is below in the Important notes section.
For the night at a glacier we provide camping gear: tents, portable kitchen gear, gas, stoves, food. Guide(s) will cook and can help you with tent setting, if needed. But you will need to share the weight of the gear with the guide(s) on a way up/down. For example, you will need to take your tent, part of food and 1 rope to your backpack. Thus please consider some free space in your backpacks.
In the morning we pick you up in Almaty and drive to the Medeo skating rink. Change to a cable car, which delivers us stright to the Talgarsky pass 3200m above sea level.
The trail to the Bogdanovich glacier (where we will set a tent camp and spend a night before the climb) starts at the pass and passes the zone of alpine highlands and then the zone of glaciers with almost no vegetation. In the beginning it goes along the left side of the gorge, by the ground track. Then comes to the left side moraine of the glacier. Here the path becomes almost invisible.
After about 1-1.5 hours of walking along the moraine, we come to the rocky outcrop rising on the lateral moraine of the glacier and resembling a sail. Climbers also call it Nuna-Tag. The glades under it are a convenient place to set up camp; the altitude here is 3600 meters. Immediately upon arrival, we do not sit down and relax, but begin active acclimatization - we move, collect water for drinking and cooking. We set up tents and place things in them. Organize a "kitchen island" protected from the wind. We cook food and get ready for the upcoming ascent: check and pack equipment into backpacks. In the evening, after dinner, we prepare for sleep in tents at altitude: dress properly and distribute things in the limited space inside the tent. We tune in to the fact that the night may be cold - not only because of the temperature but also due to the fact we're not yet properly acclimitized and the blood becomes thicker and circulates worse; our feeling in the morning may be far from ideal... But all this is small stuff, of course, compared to the big and beautiful goal :)
So, we stay overnignt in tents at 3600m at Bogdanovich glacier.
Meals · lunch, dinner
Accommodation · tent camping at 3600m
Walking · 2.5 hours, ↔ 6.5 km, ↑ 400m (3200 to 3600)
Mountaineering is always associated with early wake ups and hikes in the cold at dawn, against the wind :) So be prepared for an early breakfast on the glacier and early start - probably, in the dark.
We continue up the Bogdanovich Glacier to the Komsomol Pass, and approach the rocks along the scree. This is where the technical part of the route begins, this is multi-pitch climbing. We have to overcome several rock walls, inclined shelves and couloirs before we reach the ridge. Having climbed onto the ridge, we move north towards the summit, belaying on the simple ruined rocks that we come across along the way. The summit of Komsomol Peak is located at an altitude of 4,376 meters above sea level. This is the highest point in the region, from where the best view of the surrounding peaks of the Zailiyskiy Alatau, the highest Talgar (5,017 m) and, of course, the city of Almaty spread out below opens up. The first ascent of Komsomol Peak was made on July 17, 1930 by Almaty climbers G. Beloglazov, V. Gorbunov, I. Mysovsky.
The descent from the summit repeats the ascent route. We get down to the Komsomolsky Pass and follow the glacier to our camp.
Depending on your fitness level, the weather and the current conditions on the route/glacier, the entire ascent (camp - summit - camp) can take from 6 to 8 hours.
In the camp we boil tea, and, having a snack on the go, pack for the final hike to the cable car. Another hour and a half along the moraines of the Bogdanovich Glacier, and we are at the Talgar Pass, from where we easily and quickly descend on the cable car to Medeo.
From Medeo - transfer to the city.
Meals · breakfast, lunch
Walking / climbing · 10 hours, ↔ 5.5km, ↑780m (3600m to 4376m), ↓1200m (4376m to 3200m)
Driving · 1,5 hours
Service and prices
Transfers
transfers, pick up and drop off in Almaty
cable car tickets Medeo - Talgarsky - Medeo pass for all members
Accommodation
tent camping at Bogdanovich glacier, 1 night - living tents (double/triple), portable kitchen gear, stoves, gas, utensils
Meals
2 lunches, 1 dinner, 1 breakfast
Guiding and rent of the gear
Professional mountaineering instructor(s), English-speaking
Rent of special climbing gear: - personal climbing set (harness, helmet, lanyards, carabiners, ascender/descender) - group's gear like ropes, rock pitons, chocks, carabiners, loops etc.
Prices:
$325 per person per tour - if there are 4 people in group
$360 per person per tour - if there are 3 people in group
$390 per person per tour - if there are 2 people in group
$690 - 1 person (individual service)
Price does
not include
accommodation (hotel), meals and any entertainment in Almaty before/after a tour
water: please take your own bottle or flask with water, you will be able to refill it
personal traveller’s and climber's insurance
personal expenses like souvenirs, calls etc.
rent of personal clothes, boots and gear (sleeping bag/mat, backpack etc.)
porters: - for personal belongings and backpacks - for camping, climbing gear and food/gas
menu does not include water, soft and alcohol drinks, snacks, beverages
optional activities not listed in the tour description
Important notes
We are responsible for your safety on this particular route and only if you strictly follow all the instructions of the guide/instructor. The guide will not be responsible for your safety and life if you change the route arbitrarily, do not follow the schedule or do not fulfill the stated safety requirements.
This tour requires at least basic (higher - better) climbing level and a good physical shape.
We are responsible for your safety in the activities described in the tour program. Horseback riding, paragliding, ATV or snowmobile rides or other similar services provided by local residents on the spot - at your discretion and under your responsibility.
Mountaineering is a physically and technically demanding sport. Any climb is always associated with a certain degree of risk. We will do everything to ensure that your climb is safe. But you must clearly understand that when you are going to climb a peak, you are in any case risking your health and life. And you take full responsibility for your decision.
We do not provide porters neither for your personal stuff, nor for the group's gear and food in this tour. It means that you will have to: a) be able to pack all your clothes, boots, sleeping bga, mat, other personal things related to this climb in your backpack b) leave enough space in your backpack for a part of the group's gear and food. For example, you may be asked to take and carry your tent, 1 rope and some food. All the weight of group's climbing/camping gear and food will be divided between all the members including guides, and must be carried up/down together. There can be from 4 to 8 kilos of additional weight in your backpack (additiional means the weight besides your personal staff/sleeping bag/mat). There can be only one backpack for 1 climber - no duffle bags, no additional bags or suitcases. Please make sure your rucksack is big enough to suite all above mentioned.
This tour is held only in the summer. Even though the weather in the Zailiysky Alatau mountains is more stable in summer (compared to other seasons), we cannot trust the weather forecasts 100%. The weather in the mountains is very changeable and it is a factor that affects the success of the climb. In case of a sharp deterioration in the weather during the ascent, the guide may decide to turn back and you, by purchasing this tour, agree that the summit may not be reached due to adverse weather conditions that affect safety.
We cannot guarantee that you reach a summit. We will for sure do our best to make it happen, but if the peak ascent was not successful (for any reason: weather, your physical condition etc.), the cost of the tour will not be refunded.
If you deicide to book this tour, please contact us in advance and describe as detailed as possible your climbing background, current physical state and expectations. Basing on this info we will be able to provide you with appropriate consultation.
We do not provide water for a tour. Please take a bottle or a flask with water on the first day morning with you. You will be able to refill it during a tour in clear sources.
Let us know in advance if you have any specific food requirement (like vegetarian menu or food allergies)
We recommend having for this trip: - light alpine boots for the climb, hiking shoes or boots for going up/down the camping spot, high trekking socks, long trekking pants, t-shirt with long sleeves, warm jacket (middle layer like fleece), down jacket, wind/waterproof costume, thermo-underwear top and bottom, hat, gloves, peaked cap, buff, sunglasses, sun protection lotion, backpack of 50l-60l, trekking poles, water bottle, headlamp, small personal hygienic set, sleeping bag (comfy for -10C degrees), thick sleeping mat.
Temperatures in summer in Almaty region depend on the height above sea level, location and current weather conditions. Below data is for information only: - mountains, 2700m - 3600m ASL: +10..+20C degrees daytime, 0..+10C in the night. Can be cooler when raining/snowing.
There can be no cellular connection after Talgarsky pass (i.e. there can be no connection during the tour).
Meals · lunch, dinner 
Accommodation · tent camping at 3600m
Walking · 2.5 hours, ↔ 6.5 km, ↑ 400m (3200 to 3600)
Driving · 1,5 hours
Guiding and rent of the gear
Prices:
