Molodezhny is a 4,147-meter-high ice covered summit located in the Maloalmatinsky Gorge of the Zailiysky Alatau Range (Northern Tien Shan Mountains). We offer ascent to the summit along the 1B category route along the eastern ridge, in 2 days with a night in tents at a Touyuk-Su glacier. This is a technical climb. Ropes, special climbing equipment and techniques are used during the ascent. For the safe and successful climb, in addition to the weather and good physical fitness, participants are required to have basic (at least) skills of using crampons, ice-axe and belaying.
Molodezhny is a 4,147-meter-high summit covered by ice. The view of the majestic sparkling massif towering over the giant Tuyuk-Su glacier attracts the attention of everyone visiting Touyuk-Su, but especially climbers looking for the opportunity to practice specific ice-related skills and tecniques.
Glaciers are melting at a tremendous rate all over the world. Perhaps there are not many relatively accessible peaks left, where you can really enjoy the ice. Molodezhny is one of such summits in the mountains near Almaty. If you are an ice fan - do not miss the chance :)
This is a real expedition. During the tour you will be able to not only practice your mountaineering skills including usage of crampons and ice-axe, but also high-altitude camping and survival.
We provide all necessary climbing, camping, kitchen gear and food on the tour. We take care of smooth logistics and your safety. You just have to accept the challenge!
The ascent itslef and the approach, including a night on the glacier, are guided by experienced professional mountaineering instructors.
The climb is organized on request and only for you. The guide accompanying you throughout the tour will focus on your needs, interests and safety. You can fully enjoy personalized service and comfort.
What to expect
Mountaineering is a physically and technically demanding sport. Climbing a mountain is not a one-day hike or even a difficult trek. Any climb is always associated with a certain degree of risk. We will do everything to ensure that your climb is safe (including the use of all necessary skills by the guide, certified equipment, etc.). But you must clearly understand that when you are going to climb a peak, you are in any case risking your health and life. And you take full responsibility for your decision.
This tour is held only in the summer. Even though the weather in the Zailiysky Alatau mountains is more stable in summer (compared to other seasons), we cannot trust the weather forecasts 100%. The weather in the mountains is very changeable, different specific processes occur. Even if there is no precipitation in the city of Almaty - at an altitude of more than 2500 meters it can suddenly rain or snow, thick fog can descend or a thunderstorm can begin. Thus, the weather is a factor that affects the success of the climb. In case of a sharp deterioration in the weather during the ascent, the guide may decide to turn back and you, by purchasing this tour, agree that the summit may not be reached due to adverse weather conditions that affect safety.
For this tour you must be in good physical condition and have basic (at least) or advanced mountaineering skills including walking with crampons and ice-axe. You must be ready for 10-12 hours of continuous hard physical activity at an altitude possibly in cold/bad weather with a wind, with a backpack. You will have to stay in tent at 3500m ASL at a glacier; be ready for cold night and possibly bad feeling at an altitude; to wake up early; to hike up and down by the rocky and icy slopes, glaciers, moraines without paths - all for a hours and hours. At the same time, you must keep coordination and attention, because - in addition to physical effort - you will also have to be very careful with the equipment and ropes on the route. Your physical condition on the climb directly affects your safety.
Make sure you have appropriate clothes, boots and gear (not climbing) for this tour. The list is below in the Important notes section.
For the night at a glacier we provide camping gear: tents, portable kitchen gear, gas, stoves, food. Guide(s) will cook and can help you with tent setting, if needed. But you will need to share the weight of the gear with the guide(s) on a way up/down. For example, you will need to take your tent, part of food and 1 rope to your backpack. Thus please consider some free space in your backpacks.
Day 1· Almaty - Medeo - Shymbulak - Touyuk-su gorge - camp on Touyuk-Su glacier·
We pick you up in the morning in Almaty and drive up to the Medeo skating rink. Take an eco-taxi to the end of the asphalt road above Shymbulak ski resort. Here the pedestrian part starts.
The route almost all the way to the glacier follows the main ground track. We walk through so called "Touyuk-Su gates" - the narrowest place of the gorge with high vertical rocks both sides. Then pass by Mynzhylki dam with oldest Kazakhstan meteostation, locataed at a height of 3000m. After we cross a stream (this is the beginning of the river Small Almaty), move to the left side of the gorge and keep hiking up to the T1 glaciological station. After the station the trail becomes almost invisible and we just follow the left moraine of the Touyuk-Su glacier to the wide stony glades. Here, at a height of 3500m above sea level, we will stay for a night. Immediately upon arrival, we do not sit down and relax, but begin active acclimatization - we move, collect water for drinking and cooking. We set up tents and place things in them. Organize a "kitchen island" protected from the wind. We cook food and get ready for the upcoming ascent: check and pack equipment into backpacks.
In the evening, after dinner, we prepare for sleep in tents at altitude: dress properly and distribute things in the limited space inside the tent. We tune in to the fact that the night may be cold - not only because of the temperature but also due to the fact we're not yet properly acclimitized and the blood becomes thicker and circulates worse; our feeling in the morning may be far from ideal... But all this is small stuff, of course, compared to the big and beautiful goal :)
So, we stay overnignt in tents at 3500m on Touyuk-Su glacier tongue.
Meals · lunch, dinner
Accommodation · tent camping at 3500m
Walking · 4.5 hours, ↔ 9 km, ↑ 1100m (2400 to 3500)
Mountaineering is always associated with early wake ups and hikes in the cold at dawn, against the wind :) So be prepared for an early breakfast on the glacier and early start - probably, in the dark.
We move up the lateral moraine of the Touyuk-Su glacier to the beginning of the eastern ridge. On the ridge, the technical part of the climb starts: further we will move roped and will use crampons. So, we move up towards the summit along the ridge - there will be sections covered with snow and ice, parts of ruined rocks. The route requires participants to have at least basic skills in moving in crampons with an ice axe, walking roped by glaciers.
Having reached the summit, we stop for a short time to catch our breath and enjoy the stunning panoramas of the peaks and glaciers of the Northern Tien Shan around. By the way, a couple of decades ago it was possible to ski down from Molodezhny even in the summer - this is exactly what the scientists from the T1 glaciological station, located at the foot of the mountain, were doing.
The descent is along the ridge in the opposite direction. We get down to the glacier and come to our camp.
Depending on your fitness level, the weather and the current conditions on the route/glacier, the entire ascent (camp - summit - camp) can take from 5 to 7 hours.
In the camp we boil tea, and, having a snack on the go, pack for the final hike down the gorge to Shymbulak. Another 2 hours along the ground track, and we are at the end of the asphalt road, from here we take an eco-taxi to Medeo.
From Medeo - transfer to the city.
Meals · breakfast, lunch
Walking / climbing · 8 hours, ↔ 11km, ↑ 650m (3500m to 4147m), ↓ 1750m (4147m to 2400m)
Driving · 1,5 hours
Service and prices
Transfers
transfers, pick up and drop off in Almaty
Accommodation
tent camping on Touyuk-Su glacier, 1 night - living tents (double/triple), portable kitchen gear, stoves, gas, utensils
Meals
2 lunches, 1 dinner, 1 breakfast
Guiding and rent of the gear
Professional mountaineering instructor(s), English-speaking
Rent of special climbing gear: - personal climbing set (harness, helmet, lanyards, carabiners, ascender/descender, crampons, ice-axe) - group's gear like ropes, ice-screws, carabiners, loops etc.
Prices:
$325 per person per tour - if there are 4 people in group
$360 per person per tour - if there are 3 people in group
$390 per person per tour - if there are 2 people in group
$690 - 1 person (individual service)
Price does
not include
accommodation (hotel), meals and any entertainment in Almaty before/after a tour
water: please take your own bottle or flask with water, you will be able to refill it
personal traveller’s and climber's insurance
personal expenses like souvenirs, calls etc.
rent of personal clothes, boots and gear (sleeping bag/mat, backpack etc.)
porters: - for personal belongings and backpacks - for camping, climbing gear and food/gas
menu does not include water, soft and alcohol drinks, snacks, beverages
optional activities not listed in the tour description
Important notes
We are responsible for your safety on this particular route and only if you strictly follow all the instructions of the guide/instructor. The guide will not be responsible for your safety and life if you change the route arbitrarily, do not follow the schedule or do not fulfill the stated safety requirements.
This tour requires at least basic (higher - better) skills of walking with crampons/ice axe, belaying and a good physical shape.
We are responsible for your safety in the activities described in the tour program. Horseback riding, paragliding, ATV or snowmobile rides or other similar services provided by local residents on the spot - at your discretion and under your responsibility.
Mountaineering is a physically and technically demanding sport. Any climb is always associated with a certain degree of risk. We will do everything to ensure that your climb is safe. But you must clearly understand that when you are going to climb a peak, you are in any case risking your health and life. And you take full responsibility for your decision.
We do not provide porters neither for your personal stuff, nor for the group's gear and food in this tour. It means that you will have to: a) be able to pack all your clothes, boots, sleeping bga, mat, other personal things related to this climb in your backpack b) leave enough space in your backpack for a part of the group's gear and food. For example, you may be asked to take and carry your tent, 1 rope and some food. All the weight of group's climbing/camping gear and food will be divided between all the members including guides, and must be carried up/down together. There can be from 4 to 8 kilos of additional weight in your backpack (additiional means the weight besides your personal staff/sleeping bag/mat). There can be only one backpack for 1 climber - no duffle bags, no additional bags or suitcases. Please make sure your rucksack is big enough to suite all above mentioned.
This tour is held only in the summer. Even though the weather in the Zailiysky Alatau mountains is more stable in summer (compared to other seasons), we cannot trust the weather forecasts 100%. The weather in the mountains is very changeable and it is a factor that affects the success of the climb. In case of a sharp deterioration in the weather during the ascent, the guide may decide to turn back and you, by purchasing this tour, agree that the summit may not be reached due to adverse weather conditions that affect safety.
We cannot guarantee that you reach a summit. We will for sure do our best to make it happen, but if the peak ascent was not successful (for any reason: weather, your physical condition etc.), the cost of the tour will not be refunded.
If you deicide to book this tour, please contact us in advance and describe as detailed as possible your climbing background, current physical state and expectations. Basing on this info we will be able to provide you with appropriate consultation.
We do not provide water for a tour. Please take a bottle or a flask with water on the first day morning with you. You will be able to refill it during a tour in clear sources.
Let us know in advance if you have any specific food requirement (like vegetarian menu or food allergies)
We recommend having for this trip: - light alpine boots which can be used with crampons, hiking shoes or boots for going up/down the camping spot, high trekking socks, long trekking pants, t-shirt with long sleeves, warm jacket (middle layer like fleece), down jacket, wind/waterproof costume, thermo-underwear top and bottom, hat, gloves, peaked cap, buff, sunglasses, sun protection lotion, backpack of 50l-60l, trekking poles, water bottle, headlamp, small personal hygienic set, sleeping bag (comfy for -10C degrees), thick sleeping mat.
Temperatures in summer in Almaty region depend on the height above sea level, location and current weather conditions. Below data is for information only: - mountains, 2700m - 3600m ASL: +10..+20C degrees daytime, 0..+10C in the night. Can be cooler when raining/snowing.
There can be no cellular connection in Touyuk-Su gorge and on the glacier.
Meals · lunch, dinner 
Accommodation · tent camping at 3500m
Walking · 4.5 hours, ↔ 9 km, ↑ 1100m (2400 to 3500)
Driving · 1,5 hours
Guiding and rent of the gear
Prices:
