Pioneer is a 4,031-meter-high peak located in the Maloalmatinsky Gorge of the Zailiysky Alatau Range (Northern Tien Shan Mountains). We offer ascent to the summit along the 1B category route from the Pioneer Pass. This is a technical climb. Ropes, special climbing equipment and techniques are used during the ascent. For the safe and successful climb, in addition to the weather and good physical fitness, participants are required to have minimal (basic) mountaineering skills, which you practice with a Trekking Club instructor on the rocks in the Tuyuk-Su Gorge on the first day of the program. This is required so that the guide understands your level and explains in practice the main technical points that you will encounter during the ascent. We also provide one night in our alpine hut at an altitude of 2600 m for better acclimatization.
Route overview
Almaty - Medeo - Touyuk-Su - training rocks - Trekking Club alpine cabin - Pioneer peak - Almaty
Difficulty: ♦ ♦♦♦ ◊
Type: mountaineering
Group size: min 1 - max 4
Get insipired
The high peaks that you admire from any point in Almaty can become quite accessible. If you are interested in mountaineering or you are simply in good physical shape, are not afraid of difficulties and want to be above 4,000 meters on the top of a mountain, then this two-day program will help you conquer the peaks of the Northern Tien Shan nice and safely.
Feel like a real alpinist! This is a technical route where you, under the guidance of the instructor, will use ropes, special climbing gear and mountaineering techniques.
To increase the chances of a successful ascent, we have included a 1-day rock climbing course in the tour program: the instructor will better understand your technical and physical level, show you and explain route features and climbing gear for this particular route. Or - if you have no mountaineering background at all - practice with you the basic skills necessary for safe climbing the next day.
For better acclimatization, we have included an overnight stay in our alpine cabin at 2600m in the program. If you love everything connected with the romance of the mountains, then you will definitely like it!
We provide all necessary special climbing gear, accommodation and food on the tour. We take care of smooth logistics and your safety. All you have to do is enjoy the challenge.
The rock climbing course and the ascent to the summit are guided by experienced professional mountaineering instructors.
The climb is organized on request and only for you. The guide accompanying you throughout the tour will focus on your needs, interests and safety. You can fully enjoy personalized service and comfort.
What to expect
Mountaineering is a physically and technically demanding sport. Climbing a mountain is not a one-day hike or even a difficult trek. Any climb is always associated with a certain degree of risk. We will do everything to ensure that your climb is safe (including the use of all necessary skills by the guide, certified equipment, etc.). But you must clearly understand that when you are going to climb a peak, you are in any case risking your health and life. And you take full responsibility for your decision.
This tour is held only in the summer. Even though the weather in the Zailiysky Alatau mountains is more stable in summer (compared to other seasons), we cannot trust the weather forecasts 100%. The weather in the mountains is very changeable, different specific processes occur. Even if there is no precipitation in the city of Almaty - at an altitude of more than 2500 meters it can suddenly rain or snow, thick fog can descend or a thunderstorm can begin. Thus, the weather is a factor that affects the success of the climb. In case of a sharp deterioration in the weather during the ascent, the guide may decide to turn back and you, by purchasing this tour, agree that the summit may not be reached due to adverse weather conditions that affect safety.
For this tour you must be in good physical condition. Technical background and having your own climbing gear are not so important (we provide equipment for this tour and a course on the rocks). But you must be ready for 10-12 hours of hard physical activity, at high altitude, possibly in cold/bad weather with a wind, with a backpack. You will have to wake up early; to hike up and down by the rocky slopes, moraines without paths; climb rocks - all for a hours and hours. At the same time, you must keep coordination and attention, because - in addition to physical effort - you will also have to be very careful with the equipment. Your physical condition on the climb directly affects your safety.
Make sure you have appropriate clothes, boots and gear (not climbing) for this tour. The list is below in the Important notes section.
Alpine cabin at an altitude of 2600 meters above sea level is not a guest house or a hotel. This is a mountain shelter (although cozy, clean and comfortable) owned by our company and used for our customers only. Please find more info about conditions and facilities below.
Day 1· Almaty - Medeo - Touyuk-Su gorge - training rocks - Trekking Club cabin·
In the morning we pick you up in Almaty and drive to the Medeo skating rink. Change to an eco-taxi and get to the end of the asphalt road (above Shymbulak ski resort). From the end of the road we have to go up a dirt path for about 45 minutes, and finally come at an altitude of 2600 meters above sea level. Here, in the depth of the Tuyuk-Su gorge, the Trekking Club alpine cabin is located.
Accommodate at a cabin; pack the gear and things necessary for the climbing course into rucksacks. And go to the training rocks located on the opposite side of the gorge. The hike to the rocks takes 35-40 minutes; at a glade under the rocks we prepare for the practical course. We will spend the entire daylight hours here.
Depending on your climbing background (if there is such), the instructor will draw up a lesson plan. In any case, it will include an overview of climbing stuff and fitting of personal set (harness, helmet, lanyards, carabiners, ascender/descender). Basic rules of movement on mountain terrain, rock climbing practice. Practicing safety methods (like how to use the rope and lanyards to stay clipped all the time). You will practice fix rope climbing (ascent/rappel) with various devices etc.
Lunch on this day will be served as a picnic, right under the rock - during the course.
In the evening, we return to the cabin, take dinner and prepare for the upcoming ascent to the summit.
Mountaineering is always associated with early wake ups and hikes in the cold at dawn, against the wind :) So be prepared for an early breakfast and exit from the cabin.
We move up the dirt road to the Mynzhilki weather station, located at an altitude of 3000 m. After crossing the dam, we turn east and climb a steep slope to a place called Alpingrad. Move further up along the old moraine to the glacial lake Manshuk Mametova, located at an altitude of 3600 meters. Approach the foot of the Pionersky pass and begin the ascent to the pass along a rocky slope.
Having reached the pass, we turn in a direction of the Pioneer massif and move along scree and simple rocks to a narrow and steep couloir. Here a technical part of the route starts, a guide is fixing the ropes. Having overcome the couloir and scree above it, we come to a ridge connecting the Pioner peak with a tower. The route continues along the ridge, which leads to the summit.
From the top of the Pioneer peak, incredible panoramas of the mountains and glaciers of the Zailiysky Alatau open up. By the way, the first ascent to the summit was made by a group of Almaty climbers in 1937 under the leadership of I.Yezhelev. The descent from the summit is along the ascent route.
Depending on your fitness level, the weather and the current conditions in the gorge, the entire ascent (cabin - summit - cabin) can take from 8 to 11 hours.
Upon returning to the cabin, we take hot tea and lunch, pack our things and descend to Medeo via Shymbulak. From Medeo we drive back to the city.
accommodation at a Trekking Club alpine cabin in Touyuk-Su, 1 night
Meals
2 lunches, 1 dinner, 1 breakfast
Guiding and rent of the gear
Professional mountaineering instructor, English-speaking
Rent of special climbing gear for the course and climb: - personal climbing set (harness, helmet, lanyards, carabiners, ascender/descender) - group's gear like ropes, rock pitons, chocks, carabiners, loops etc.
Prices:
$290 per person per tour - if there are 4 people in group
$325 per person per tour - if there are 3 people in group
$360 per person per tour - if there are 2 people in group
$620 - 1 person (individual service)
Price does
not include
accommodation (hotel), meals and any entertainment in Almaty before/after a tour
water: please take your own bottle or flask with water, you will be able to refill it
personal traveller’s and climber's insurance
personal expenses like souvenirs, calls etc.
rent of personal clothes, boots and gear (like backpack)
porters for personal belongings, backpacks during the tour
menu does not include water, soft and alcohol drinks, snacks, beverages
optional activities not listed in the tour description
Important notes
We are responsible for your safety on this particular route and only if you strictly follow all the instructions of the guide/instructor. The guide will not be responsible for your safety and life if you change the route arbitrarily, do not follow the schedule or do not fulfill the stated safety requirements.
We are responsible for your safety in the activities described in the tour program. Horseback riding, paragliding, ATV or snowmobile rides or other similar services provided by local residents on the spot - at your discretion and under your responsibility.
Mountaineering is a physically and technically demanding sport. Any climb is always associated with a certain degree of risk. We will do everything to ensure that your climb is safe. But you must clearly understand that when you are going to climb a peak, you are in any case risking your health and life. And you take full responsibility for your decision.
This tour is held only in the summer. Even though the weather in the Zailiysky Alatau mountains is more stable in summer (compared to other seasons), we cannot trust the weather forecasts 100%. The weather in the mountains is very changeable and it is a factor that affects the success of the climb. In case of a sharp deterioration in the weather during the ascent, the guide may decide to turn back and you, by purchasing this tour, agree that the summit may not be reached due to adverse weather conditions that affect safety.
We cannot guarantee that you reach a summit. We will for sure do our best to make it happen, but if the peak ascent was not successful (for any reason: weather, your physical condition etc.), the cost of the tour will not be refunded.
If you deicide to book this tour, please contact us in advance and describe as detailed as possible your climbing background, current physical state and expectations. Basing on this info we will be able to provide you with appropriate consultation.
We do not provide water for a tour. Please take a bottle or a flask with water on the first day morning with you. You will be able to refill it during a tour in clear sources.
Let us know in advance if you have any specific food requirement (like vegetarian menu or food allergies)
There is no way to deliver your luggage from the tour start point to the cabin, thus ALL your stuff must be packed in one backpack. You will have to carry it from Shymbulak to the cabin on the first day, and from the cabin to Shymbulak on the second. DO NOT take excessive gear and clothes, otherwise your backpack will become too heavy. Take ONLY necessary things, which you will use during the course/climb and at a cabin. The list is below.
Facilities at an alpine cabin: alpine cabin at an altitude of 2600 meters above sea level is not a guest house or a hotel. This is a mountain shelter (although cozy, clean and comfortable) owned by our company and used for our customers only. It has everything you need for an overnight stay in the mountains. There is a heater inside, a kitchen, 2 rooms with beds, mattresses, sleeping bags, pillows and blankets (one room has 2 beds, the second room has 6 beds). There is also a dining area with a table, chairs, and all the necessary utensils. In the evening, electricity is turned so you can recharge your gadgets. Single accommodation can only be arranged if you purchase an individual tour and we have no other reservations/guests on your dates. There is no shower. The toilet is outside (this is an outdoor toilet without flushing). More info about the cabin is here.
We recommend having for this trip: - trekking boots or light alpine boots for the climb, trainers for going up/down the cabin, trekking socks, long trekking pants, t-shirt with long sleeves, warm jacket (middle layer like fleece), down jacket, wind/waterproof costume, thermo-underwear top and bottom, hat, gloves, peaked cap, buff, sunglasses, sun protection lotion, backpack of 30l-40l which will suite all your stuff, trekking poles, water bottle, small personal hygienic set. Sleeping bags, mats are provided at a cabin.
Temperatures in summer in Almaty region depend on the height above sea level, location and current weather conditions. Below data is for information only: - mountains, 2700m - 3600m ASL: +10..+20C degrees daytime, 0..+10C in the night. Can be cooler when raining/snowing.
Meals · lunch, dinner 
Accommodation · Trekking Club alpine cabin
Walking · 2 hours, ↔ 5 km, ↑ 500m (2200 to 2800)
Driving · 1,5 hours
Guiding and rent of the gear
Prices:
