The Talgar (5017m) peak climb

The Talgar peak

Mountaineering expedition to the peak of Talgar ( 5017m )

The peak of Talgar is the highest point of the Zailiysky Allatau, the northernmost range of the Tien-Shan mountains. This peak, as well as the surrounding ones are very popular with mountaineers of different qualifications. Saying nothing about the others, only to this peak there are 9 classified routes, from 3A to 6A categories of difficulty.

Expeditions to Talgar peak are done on a regular basis by Trekking Club team that provides climbers with professional guides, all necessary equipment for comfortable camping.

Season	July – first half of September
Duration	7 days
Minimum number of participants	6 people

THE ROUTES AVAILABLE FOR CLIMBING
Variant 1	Climbing of a Main Summit(5017m) from Korzhnevsky glacier, 3A category
Variant 2	Climbing of South summit (5000m) from Middle Talgar gorge, by 4A category (Baranovsky route)

Variant 1

Climbing of a Main Summit (5017m) from Korzhnevsky glacier, 3A category
Day 1	Drive to Issyk lake. Trek up following Zharsai river, 6-7 hours
Day 2	Trek up to the foot of Kok-Bulak pass, 5-6 hours
Day 3	Climb over Kok-Bulak pass and trek by Korzhenevsky glacier, 6 hours
Day 4	Acclimatization day
Day 5	Climbing of Talgar peak(5017m) and back to the tent camp at a glacier
Day 6	Trek back to the Bozkol lake over Kok-Bulak pass, 6 hours
Day 7	Trek down to Issyk lake, drive back from Issyk to Almaty city, 6-7 hours

Information on the route

Trekking period:

There are 2 days of trekking from Issyk lake (end of the road) up to the foot of Talgar massif, over Kok-Bulak pass (4036m). And one more day of walking by Korzhenevsky glacier.
32km is a total length of trekking route

Climbing period:

Character of the route: snow-icy, average steepness of the slopes – 30°
Technically difficult parts will be handled with fixed ropes by the guid
The climbing period takes 8-9 hours, from a camp to the top and back

We provide with:

Transport
Living tents
Kitchen and gas gear
Climbing equipment
Mountain guides and assistants
USB-communication and satellite phone for emergency cases
Foodstuff
First-aid kit

   Notice:
   All the members and guides are carrying all the expedition stuff (common gear) together:
   all the weight has to be divided between all the members

Variant 2

Climbing of South summit (5000m) from Middle Talgar gorge, by 4A category (Baranovsky route)
Day 1	Drive to Almaty natural resort gate (via Talgar village). Trek up to the place of former “Talgar” mountaineering camp, 7-8 hours
Day 2	Trek up by the gorge to the South Talgar glacier, 6-7 hours
Day 3	Acclimatization day: climbing of Klyshtau peak, 4 hours
Day 4	Climbing of Talgar south summit (5000m), 12 hours and back to the tent camp.
Day 5	Reserve day
Day 6	Trek back to the “Talgar” mountaineering camp.
Day 7	Trek back to the national reserve entry point. Drive back to Almaty, 4-5 hours

Information on the route

Trekking period:

There are 2 trekking days from a national reserve entry up to the South Talgar glacier, by Middle Talgar gorge.
18km is a total length of trekking route

Climbing period:

Character of the route: snow-icy, average steepness of the slopes – 35-40°
Technically difficult parts will be handled with fixed ropes by the guides.
The climbing period takes 12 hours, from a camp at a height of 3500m to the top and back

We provide with:

Transport
Living tents
Kitchen and gas gear
Climbing equipment
Mountain guides and assistants
USB-communication and satellite phone for emergency cases
Foodstuff
First-aid kit
Entry fee to a natural resort

Notice:
All the members and guides are carrying all the expedition stuff (common gear) together: all the weight has to be divided between all the members.

Talgar peak