Talgar peak 5017m expedition

Duration · 12 DAYS

Season · SUMMER 

Activity · MOUNTAINEERING

      Price upon request

Customer reviews   reviews

 

 

  

Talgar peak 5017m
glaciers with crevasses camping on glacier sunrise views from the Talgar slopes on the route
camp 1 at the foot on the trek on the route Talgar area panoramas

 

Route overview
 What to expect Itinerary Expedition service Important notes

 

Talgar peak is the highest point of the Zailiysky Alatau (Trans-Ili Alatau) mountain ridge - one of the ranges of the Northen Tien Shan. Talgar is a massif with 3 summits; we organise climbs of the main one with the height of 5017 meters above sea level. The expedition takes up to 12 days, including a trek up the foot, ascent and a trek back. 
Talgar is located in a hard-to-reach and remote mountainous area, there are no easy and convenient approaches to it. We are now making an approach to the summit from the Turgen gorge and the trek takes 5-6 days, passes over 2 passes and several glaciers - mostly withour trails. The ascent to the summit itself is also quite difficult (there are no easy routes), this is a snow-ice route 3A Russian category from the Korzhnevskaya glacier. We plan 2-3 days for the ascent, taking into account the weather and acclimatization time. The return trek takes 3-4 days.

 

 Route overview

Almaty - Turgen Gorge - Batan - upper reaches of Turgen River - pass 3930m - upper reaches of Issyk River - pass 3950 - Korzhnevskaya Glacier - Talgar peak - trek back to Batan - Almaty

Difficulty: ♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ ♦

Type: mountaineering

Group size: min 1 - max 4 

Talgar peak route from Korzhnevskaya glacier

 

what to expect

What to expect

 

  • Mountaineering is a physically and technically demanding sport. Climbing high mountains in remote areas with no infrastructure is associated with a certain degree of risk. We will do everything to ensure that your climb is safe. But you must clearly understand that when you are going to climb a peak, you are in any case risking your health and life. And you take full responsibility for your decision.
  • Talgar expedition is held only in summer - we prefer August. The weather in the mountains is very changeable, you have to consider specific processes around the peak (it is the highest point of the ridge and often attracts overcast). The weather is a factor that affects the success of the climb. In case of a bad weather during the ascent, the guide may decide to turn back and you, by purchasing this service, agree that the summit may not be reached due to adverse weather conditions that affect safety.
  • For this tour you must be in a very good physical shape and have sufficient climbing experience. We do not provide porters or carriage of the group's stuff in helicopter for this trip (the reasons described below in the Important notes). Thus, you must be ready to carry heavy backpacks for 10 days over the glaciers and passes. And to be concentrated enough / not exhausted for the summit ascent as well. 
  • Good mountaineering and trekking clothes, gear and other items will be required. The list is below in the Important notes section, you may also refer to our Talgar checklist.
  • We provide all necessary climbing, camping, kitchen gear and food for the expedition. We take care of the logistics and safety.
  • The ascent itslef and the approach are guided by experienced professional mountaineering instructors / guides.
  • The climb is organized on request and only for you. There are no groups, which you could join and no schedule.

 

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Itinerary

Days 1 - 5· Almaty - Batan - 5-days trek (approach) to ABC on Korzhnevskaya Glacier ·

On the first day, we pick you up in Almaty in the morning and drive to the upper reaches of the Turgen gorge (2 hours). Stop near Batan forestry - here the road ends. Pack backpacks, distribute equipment and food, start trekking up.
The first camp will be at an altitude of 2600m in the Turgen River valley in the forest zone. The route to the second camp goes through the alpine meadows zone, overnight will be at an altitude of 3250 m near the moraine lakes under the Druzhnye Rebyata glacier (camp 2).
On the third day of the approach, we cross the pass of 3930 meters and descend to the upper reaches of the Issyk River. The third camp is at an altitude of 3600 m.
Day four: climb up to the foot of the Kok-Bulak pass and spend the night in a camp-4 at an altitude of 3800m. On the fifth day, we cross the Kok-Bulak (3950m) and descend to the tongue of the Korzhnevskaya glacier. Walk further along the glacier to the place where the ABC camp will be set up at an altitude of 4250 m.
You should expect from 5 to 7 hours of trekking every day, without trails.

meals    Meals · breakfasts / dinner in camps, lunches on a way

accommodation    Accommodation · tent camping, 4 nights

walking features    Walking · 5-7 hours per day, overall distance 63 km, ↑↓ from 1650m to 4250m

driving   Driving · 2 hours (Almaty - Batan)

 

 

Days 6-8· Acclomatization and ascent ·

We plan 1 day for preparation to the ascent and acclimatization. 1 day for the ascent to the summit and 1 reserve day for the case of bad weather.
The route to the summit is snow-ice, 3A Russian category, from the Korzhnevskaya glacier along the eastern slope. The average steepness of the route is 45 degrees, the length of the climbing part is 500 meters. Ropes are used for belay on the route. The descent from the summit to ABC is along the ascent route.

meals    Meals · breakfasts / dinner in camps, lunches on a way

accommodation    Accommodation · tent camping, 4 nights

walking features    Climbing · 10 hours, ↑↓ 780m (4250m to 5017m)

 

 

Days 9 - 12· Trek back to Batan - Almaty ·

The return trek follows the same route as the approach and takes 3-4 days. The places for overnight stays will depend on walking rate.
You finally come down to Batan, where change to a car and drive to the city.

meals    Meals · breakfasts / dinner in camps, lunches on a way

accommodation    Accommodation · tent camping, 3 nights

walking features    Walking · 5-7 hours per day, overall distance 63 km, ↑↓ from 4250m to 1650m

driving   Driving · 2 hours (Batan - Almaty)

  

Expedition service 

 driving  Transfers

  • transfer Almaty - Turgen - Almaty

 accommodation   Bivouac

  • Rent of all necessary camping gear:
    - living tents (double/triple), portable kitchen gear, stoves, gas, utensils
  • Base camp services: Trekking Club camp in Turgen gorge (for early return)

 NP fees  National Parks / Reserves

  • Ile-Alatau NP fees
  • Almaty Reserve permissions

 meals   Meals

  • 3 meals a day during expedtion: breakfast & dinner at camps, lunch on a way. Guides are cooking.

 guiding   Guiding and climbing gear

  • Professional mountaineering instructor(s)
  • Rent of special climbing gear:
    - personal climbing set (harness, helmet, lanyards, carabiners, ascender/descender, crampons, ice-axe) 
    - group's gear like ropes, ice-screws, carabiners, loops etc.
  • Expedition safety: group's first aid kit, emergency satellite connection, group monitoring with GPS SPOT

prices   Price: upon request

Price does

not include
  • international flights to/out Almaty
  • any visa/migration issues, fees and support, if applicable 
  • accommodation (hotel), meals and any entertainment in Almaty before/after a tour
  • airport/train/bus station meetings/transfers 
  • personal climber's and general traveller's insurance 
  • personal expenses like souvenirs, calls etc.
  • rent of personal clothes, boots and gear (sleeping bag/mat, backpack etc.)
  • porters:
    - for personal belongings and backpacks
    - for camping, climbing gear and food/gas
  • menu does not include water, soft and alcohol drinks, snacks, beverages

 

Important notes

  1. We are responsible for your safety on this particular route and only if you strictly follow all the instructions of the guide/instructor. The guide will not be responsible for your safety and life if you change the route arbitrarily, do not follow the schedule or do not fulfill the stated safety requirements.
  2. Talgar requires good physical condition and sufficient mountaineering experience from a climber. Please contact us in advance and describe as detailed as possible your climbing background, current physical state and plans. Basing on this info we will be able to provide you with appropriate consultation. 

  3. SUMMIT APPROACH AND CARRIAGE OF EXPEDITION STUFF:

    •      We do not use helicopters to transport people and cargo to the foot of Talgar and back, for the following reasons:
    - in Almaty it is extremely difficult to find helicopters and pilots with permission to land on a glacier above 4,000 meters
    - in the area of the summit the weather is very changeable, it is almost impossible to guess the window gap and guarantee the schedule.

    • Carrying of expedition stuff. Since the mountain is remote, using porters or pack animals (like horses, mules or yaks) is ineffective. Animals will not pass over the passes without trails and glaciers with crevasses. People who could be hired as porters will not be able to carry much useful load, because they will have to carry their personal clothes, boots, tents, gear for crossing glaciers and their food. All this will take up 80% of the volume in their backpacks. It means that they will simply go with you as additional participants with a minimum of useful load.
    That is, this is a completely autonomous expedition, in which all participants and guides distribute all the expedition stuff among all group members and carry it all together. These things are shared in carriage: tents, food, gas, utensils and stoves, climbing equipment.
    For sure, we will try to make the weight of the backpacks as easy as possible - for example, by preliminary deliveries of the food to the first camps; usage of lightweight products etc. But still you have to consider the starting weight of a backpack for Talgar around 25-28 kg.


  4. We cannot guarantee that you reach a summit. We will do our best to make it happen, but if the peak ascent was not successful (for any reason: weather, your physical condition etc.), the cost of the tour will not be refunded.
  5. Let us know in advance if you have any specific food requirement (like vegetarian menu or food allergies)
  6. List of necessary clothes and gear for Talgar:
    - clothes and boots: alpine boots for 5.000 meters climbs, trekking shoes, high trekking socks, thermal underwear top and bottom, long trekking pants, middle layer jacket (like thick fleece), t-shirts with short and long sleeves, wind-waterproof costume (jacket and pants), down jacket, hat, buff, peaked cap, gloves, mittens, sunglasses, sun protection (lotion), backpack 70l - 80l, gaiters, sleeping bag (comfy for -15C degrees), sleeping mat, trekking poles, water bottle, headlamp, small personal hygienic set.
    Special climbing gear (crampons, ice-axe, helmet, harness, carabiners) is provided / included in a service package. But if you have yours and prefer using it, then you may bring. 

  7. Temperatures in summer in Almaty region depend on the height above sea level, location and current weather conditions. Below data is for information only, for August:
    - mountains, 1600m - 2700m ASL: +20..+30C degrees daytime, +5...+15C in the night. Can be cooler when raining/snowing.
    - mountains, 2700m - 3600m ASL: +15..+25C degrees daytime, 0..+10C in the night. Can be cooler when raining/snowing.
    - mountains, 3600m - 4600m ASL: 0..+10C degrees daytime, -10..0C in the night. Can be cooler when raining/snowing.
  8. The approach and Talgar area itself is a wild mountainous terrain. There is no infrastructure, no trails, no signs, no huts/lodges, no shops and no cellular coverage at all. 
 
 
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