Trekking Club team's winter climb of Elbrus peak 5642m

Why did we decide to go to Elbrus in winter? We just thought that this is also normal :) Of course, while preparing for the ascent, we took into account the frost and wind, provided for more clothes and special masks, in addition to the GPS, we also stocked up with marking poles for the case of poor visibility. We made a tactical plan for acclimatization and investigations of the route.

So, we are in Terskol. After two days spent in the town, which resembled a winter fairy tale, we took a cable car to the cabin-shelter “Veter”, located at an altitude of 3750m. This cozy complex of mountain huts served as our base for acclimatization, here we waited out the bad weather and from here we planned to make an ascent. The next day we decided to go for acclimatization hike and explore the route along the way. The day was fine - warm and windless. We climbed to the beginning of the “oblique shelf”, where a frozen retrak is visible at an altitude of 5000m. At this stage, we were interested in the inspection of snow conditions in the area from 4700m (the upper part of the Pastukhov rocks) to 5000m. In winter, this slope with a steepness of 25-35 degrees is often covered by the ice, and, for example, if there was solid ice, then we would have to plan much more time for alternate belay making. We were lucky - there were narrow paths of dense snow on the slope, which made it possible to go all together.

Having descended to the hut after acclimatization, we discussed all the factors (features and condition of the route, weather forecast, physical state) and decided to climb in a day. According to this plan, the next day was spent in the vicinity of the hut - we waited out the bad weather, practiced on the ice, got used to the height and cold.

21st January 2019

Retrak arrived at the shelter on time, and at 5:25 am we loaded up and left. We reached the end of the rocky ridge at 4400m in 20 minutes. Here we put on crampons and pulled over masks (a constant wind was blowing). Then walked to the top of the Pastukhov rocks in the dark, with flashlights. It began to dawn at 7:00 and almost immediately the sun appeared. We approached the retrac at 5050m at 8:30. Further ascent to the "oblique shelf" took 30-40 minutes, along the way we put marking poles - they were very useful to us on the descent. To any next mountaineer, planning a climb of Elbrus in winter, we advise to mark the section from the Pastukhov rocks to the “oblique ledge”. There are old landmarks, but a good, safe trail in winter time may not go along them; and GPS may give an error of several meters that are critical in such a place.

The "oblique shelf" goes around the eastern peak, slightly taking it up. First, there is a traverse along the slope, the steepness is 25-30 degrees, there are places to fall. We went with an ice ax and one stick. Further, the trail flattens out and leads to a saddle - this section is well-marked and blown in winter, there are many landmarks along the trail. We were at the saddle around 11:40 am.

The ascent to the western peak from the lintel passes along a slope with a steepness of 35-40 degrees, from left to right. Approximately after 100m of difference in height, a string of railings leading to the dome begins. The further path passes along the dome - also in a northerly direction, but already along a wide gentle ridge. There is a small rise before the top. The trail is well marked and blown out in winter. We reached the top at about 13:10. The descent started at 13:30 and by 17:20 we were at the shelter (3750m). During the entire day of climbing, the wind blew 10-15 m/s, and on the dome the gusts reached 25-30 m/s. We had to constantly go in a mask, and only on the way back, near 4500m point, the wind calmed down a bit. The top is quite sharp, located in the northern part of the domed ridge.

In the evening in the hut we celebrated a little, ate and fell asleep.

22nd January 2019

In the morning we woke up at about eight from dry mouth :) We drank coffee, packed our things, tidied up the kitchen. The weather that day was bad and the chairlift did not work. Therefore, taking with us garbage from the shelter, we went to the Mir station on foot, and from there we cable car dpwn to Azau glade.

p.s. we have deliberately chose the time before dawn to start the ascent - it allowed us not to freeze on the way up.

The timing of the ascent is given rather for a guide and an understanding of the general layout of the route. Of course, it can be different, it depends on the amount of snow, preparation, temperature, wind and many other factors.

Author - Alexey Raspopov