List of clothing and gear for Talgar Peak climb
List of clothing and gear for Talgar Peak climb
Regularly organizing commercial and sports expeditions to the highest point of the Northern Tien Shan, Talgar Peak, we have accumulated extensive experience in preparing such events. Based on it, we decided to share with everyone planning to climb this peak a basic list of clothing and special equipment.
The list concerns only individual gear and does not cover issues related to group set: tents, ropes, carabiners and pitons, stoves and utensils.

We hope this checklist will serve you well as you prepare for Talgar.The season, the route you choose, and your qualification/climbing background will ultimately determine which items you take with you and which you don't. Common sense and caution are the best helpers in this matter. The set should be minimal, but sufficient for all possible cases. Choose your climbing gear carefully, keeping in mind the trade-off between weight and safety.

Here are 10 main points:

  1. Backpack/rucksack and packing
  2. Trekking clothes for approach to the summit
  3. Clothing for climb and cold weather
  4. Shoes
  5. Bivouac kit
  6. Health and protection
  7. Other accessories
  8. Special climbing equipment
  9. Hygiene
  10. Personal items and camera
List of clothing and gear for Talgar Peak climb

  • rucksack – any practical and convenient backpack 65-75 l, which should fit personal belongings and part of the group equipment
  • hermetic bag – these bags of different sizes are convenient to use for organizing and separate packaging of things and products
  • cover for a backpack - will help keep things dry in rainy weather. Some backpacks come with similar liners or are waterproof themselves
List of clothing and gear for Talgar Peak climb

  • shirt or T-shirt - with long sleeves, preferably made of breathable synthetic fabric
  • trousers/trekking pants – convenient and comfortable, not restricting movement. They should be thin and light for the part of the route in the green area.
  • cap or panama is a must for hiking; it will protect you from the bright sun shining in your face
  • sunglasses – it is necessary to protect your eyes in conditions of increased ultraviolet radiation. You should always have glasses on, no matter the weather.
  • socks – comfortable, soft trekking socks will help avoid chafing during long hikes
List of clothing and gear for Talgar Peak climb

  • thermal underwear, set – medium thickness. You can take two sweaters for insulation or change while walking, to stay dry at all times
  • “middle layer” jacket – should always be in your backpack, as the weather in the mountains can change quickly. Fleece jackets do an excellent job of keeping you warm. They are lightweight and wick moisture well. It’s better to take a thicker one - Polartek 200 or 300
  • light down jacket – a thermal layer is required when climbing to a peak above 5000m, even in summer
  • waterproof jacket - should always be in your backpack for case of rain or wind. It is advisable to have a jacket with a hood, and a single-layer one - to reduce weight and volume
  • waterproof pants - will help keep you warm not only during rain, but also in strong winds. Trousers should be light, single-layer, preferably with long zippers on the sides for easy dressing without removing shoes
  • warm hat - during daytime hikes in cold weather, the head gives off more heat than any other part of the body. Bring a warm winter hat to help stabilize your body temperature, and you'll waste less energy trying to stay warm
  • bandana or buff – will protect your neck from the sun and your face from strong winds
  • gloves and mittens are a necessary attribute of any climb. The thickness and style depend on the conditions and weather, but a pair of mittens and a pair of gloves is a must
  • gaiters – using gaiters will keep your feet dry. Very important during the ascent period. Select the size and model of gaiters to match your boots in advance
  • warm pants - for insulation at the bivouac, on the glacier and when climbing. They can also be used to approach above the forest zone.
  • trekking socks – the quantity and thickness should be selected optimally. Leave one pair dry and clean for the day of the climb (clean socks provide better warmth)
List of clothing and gear for Talgar Peak climb

  • light trekking boots – for approaches. Even trekking shoes will do. Remember that weight matters a lot
  • mountaineering boots – ideally, lightweight specialized boots with medium-hard soles are sufficient. This will allow you to use them both on the ascent and on the approach, which will significantly reduce the weight of the backpack. Consider the design of your crampons and choose boots with suitable welts for attaching the crampons (or vice versa)
List of clothing and gear for Talgar Peak climb

  • sleeping bag – a down one is better, it is more compact and lighter than sleeping bags with synthetic filling of similar characteristics. In addition, down warms better. It must be ok for temperatures down to -18C degrees. This will be enough to relax comfortably on the glacier even in bad weather
  • heat-insulating mat - a mat made of high-quality polyurethane foam is best suited. Air mattresses are capricious, and if they are old/not of very good quality, they deflate overnight
List of clothing and gear for Talgar Peak climb

  1. first aid kit - it is better to be prepared for the worst-case scenario and have a basic set of medications and dressings with you. This does not replace the group first aid kit, but complements it
  2. elastic bandage is the best remedy in case of joint problems. It is versatile and can be used for different purposes
  3. repellent – during periods of tick danger, tick spray or ointment will protect you in tick habitats (forest, grass)
  4. sunscreen ointment / creme - a product that protects the skin from sunburn - is necessary at any time of the year
  5. toilet paper, wet wipes
List of clothing and gear for Talgar Peak climb

  • headlamp is an important part of the equipment, since on the day of ascent the start is scheduled for 3 a.m., and you will have to walk with a flashlight until dawn. But on other days you also can’t do without it - at the bivouac, in the early rises. It is worth remembering to save batteries wisely or take one set in reserve. By the way, lithium batteries are many times more efficient than alkaline ones
  • thermos or flask – you should not carry large bottles with you, there are always sources of water along the way. A larger volume will increase the weight of your backpack. 0.7 liters is enough for yourself. Having a thermos is preferable - both for hiking and climbing - but it is heavier than a plastic flask. It’s just that warm water is better absorbed and quenches thirst better. Well, in cold weather there is no risk of getting a cold in your throat
  • personal utensils – there should be a minimal and very light set. Plastic cup, deep plate, spoon
  • folding knife – if it’s light and small, it won’t hurt
  • lighter – let it be
  • rope - a cord with a diameter of 3-4 mm will help replace torn laces or tie something to a backpack
  • adhesive tape – fabric tape is useful and convenient for quickly repairing clothing or equipment
  • whistle is lightweight and does not take up much space. Don't ignore this useful little thing. A whistle will help you more effectively indicate your location if things don't go according to plan
List of clothing and gear for Talgar Peak climb


The list below describes a personal set of light climbing gear for the easiest route (ice-snow) along the eastern slope, in summer conditions. Group's gear is a separate issue.

  • helmet – head protection is required. Choose a lightweight helmet, but not at the expense of safety. Most of the time she will be carried in a backpack. If you tie it on the outside of the backpack, make sure that it does not accidentally come unfastened and remains intact
  • harness – light and compact; some models are well suited for high-altitude climbs and ski alpinism. Its size should correspond to your build in warm clothes
  • lanyards – two versatile lanyards, made of tapes or of 3 meters of 9mm dynamic rope. Or some other ready-made options. Compactness and light weight are preferred
  • carabiners - it is enough to have 4 carabiners with a coupling, two full-size HMS for belaying and rappelling, and two small asymmetrical D-shaped ones for the ends of the lanyard
  • belay device - the device you are used to is better suited. An ordinary compact tube-shaped is enough
  • ascender – a very important part of personal equipment. It must be certified (which prooves the manufacturer is reliable)
  • crampons – despite the fact that most of the time they will travel in a backpack, you should not take aluminum ones to save weight. On the route they will be ineffective or completely useless. Steel normal 12 tooth crampons are ideal. Check the fit of the fastenings in advance and adjust them to your boots - this is very important
  • ice ax is a necessary and very important gear for snow and ice routes. It not only helps to move by ice slopes safe, but is also used to belay a partner, for self-arrest etc. If you do not plan to lead the climb, then a lightweight ice ax of a classic shape and up to 60 cm long will suit you
  • prusik - a piece of six-millimeter cord tied into a loop. For the friction knot. It is better to choose a classic length (universal size): from the central carabiner to the outstretched arm. With the help of such a light and simple device, you can safely climb a fixed rope, as well as self-belay when descending.
  • trekking poles – an optional piece of equipment, but very helpful in maintaining balance when walking with a heavy backpack. Their weight and durability are important. The design of hiking poles usually considers changing the height (“telescopic”)
List of clothing and gear for Talgar Peak climb


  • toothpaste and toothbrush - for such trips it is convenient to use pastes in small tubes and folding lightweight brushes
  • soap - liquid soap in a small tube
  • towel – preferably small and light
List of clothing and gear for Talgar Peak climb


  • camera – camera or smartphone of your choice. There is no cellular coverage or recharging options along the way. So take an additional memory card and battery. It is convenient to use the camera on batteries that can be replaced. The phone should be quite light, push-button (it holds the charge longer).
  • GPS navigator – if you are in doubt about the approach route, then a navigator with pre-downloaded maps will definitely come in handy. When climbing to the top, in case visibility deteriorates, we do not use GPS, we use bamboo sticks - they are more effective and accurate. But this is a part of group set.
  • wallet – don’t forget documents and money

Сlimber's library

 Q. Anchoring on rocks with stoppers
 Q. Care and maintenance of climbing gear
 Q. All about carabiners  Q. Day hike checklist
 Q. How to choose climbing harness?  Q. Winter camping: main rules
 Q. Climbing shoes: types, features and use
 Q. Avalanche safety by Alexey Raspopov
 Q. Descenders and belay devices
 Q. Khan Tengri Peak history: first ascent
 Q. How to choose mountain boots  Q. Talgar Peak 5017m climber's checklist