Peak Pioneer (4031m), on the left part of the southern wall, category 3B.

Climbing Peak Pioner on the left part of the southern wall, Category 3B (4,031 m)

The southern wall of Peak Pioner is a whole monolith with four routes: 3B, 4А, 4B, 4B. Approach the beginning of the route via Alpingrad, on the lateral moraine of the Manshuk Mametovoi Glacier.


R0 - R1  The first wall, 65-70 degrees steep, a lot of places for intermediate spotting. Hooks or marks can be used. The wall ends with a small ramp with set hooks for the stations.
R1 - R2  An internal angle to the right and up from the station, with hooks for the right level, to the chimney. Move up the fireplace, 7 meters , but not to the end. Go to the vertical wall to the right, 90 degrees steep. It is not long and has a lot of good hitches. The wall goes out to a good ramp.
R2 - R3  Traverse to the left along the slant ramp. In about 40 meters there is a good ledge on the ridge. The third station.
R3 - R4 45 meters along the ridge, rocks of Category 3, with 50-60 degrees steep. Then the route goes along the ridge to the top with spotting.

Descent on Pionerski Pass by 1B.
climbing in Tian Shan climbing in Tian Shan

 

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