Peak Uchitel (4045m), on the south-western buttress, category 4B
Peak Uchitel on the south-western counterfort, Category 4B (4,045 m)
The route begins from the lateral moraine of Manshuk Mametovoi Glacier, whence you need to go 150- 200 meters up on the talus up to the buttress.
R0 - R1 First wall: straight upwards 40 meters , to the ramp. There are a lot of crack along the way for intermediate spotting.
R1 - R2 From the ramp, move straight upwards across oblique mushroomings, steepness in some places is 90 degrees. The wall goes out to a slant ramp
R2 - R3 Rocks in the form of an oblique internal angle. Approach along the angle to the left. It has a place for a station here.
R3 - R4 Climbing the wall, 10 meters , to the internal angle. About 25 meters along the internal angle to the talus ramp.
R4 - R5 A big slant talus ramp.
R5 - R6 A rock with a narrow crack in the center shifting to the right. Again, a talus ramp in its upper part.
R6 - R7 An exit from the ramp to the pre-summit ridge along an easy internal angle - 30 meters . Then, exit to the summit with spotting.
Descent by 2А.
The route is almost always going upward, along the counterfort to the top.
The route is almost always going upward, along the counterfort to the top.