Traverse of peaks Uchitel (4045m)-Pioner (4031m), category 3A
Traverse of Peaks Uchitel (4,045 m) – Pioner (4,031m), Category 3А
Having ascended Peak Uchitel on Route 2А from the eastern side, move along the ridge for 80 m towards its descending side. There is a good ramp here in front of a 10-meter wall, good to set up intermediate spotting. The wall must be climbed on the north-eastern part from the ridge. This ascent goes out to a sheer increase in the ridge between Uchitel and Pioner peaks.
Having moved 70- 80 m along the ridge towards Peak Pioner, approach the sink. This begins the descent to the bridge – 30 meters . The rocks are not difficult, but it is best to set up handrails for descent.
The descent to the bridge ends on the talus ramp. Two meters to the left of the ramp is the chimney which goes out to the bridge in the pre-summit ridge of Peak Pioner. After you go up the chimney to a narrow sink, move towards Peak Pioner along the right part of the ridge, on the edge of snow and rocks. It is almost a lateral movement, about 30 m .
Before you exit to the top, climb easy rocks, 10 m .
Descent from Peak Pioner: the first 30 m on the ascending way, then to the north-west to the Pionerski Pass , along talus corridors (Route 1B).
Having moved 70- 80 m along the ridge towards Peak Pioner, approach the sink. This begins the descent to the bridge – 30 meters . The rocks are not difficult, but it is best to set up handrails for descent.
The descent to the bridge ends on the talus ramp. Two meters to the left of the ramp is the chimney which goes out to the bridge in the pre-summit ridge of Peak Pioner. After you go up the chimney to a narrow sink, move towards Peak Pioner along the right part of the ridge, on the edge of snow and rocks. It is almost a lateral movement, about 30 m .
Before you exit to the top, climb easy rocks, 10 m .
Descent from Peak Pioner: the first 30 m on the ascending way, then to the north-west to the Pionerski Pass , along talus corridors (Route 1B).
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